Ko te kaihoahoa ahua ao-rongonui: te whakatauranga, te kohinga pai

Te Revolution Industrial arahina ki te meka e kua riro te kakahu rongonui, me te wātea, me te hohoro puta ahumahi kakahu whiriwhiri, āhuatanga nei i te taketake me te motuhake. Kua riro nga kaihoahoa ahua tino rongonui wahi o te ahurea, o ratou fakatupu ahuareka ana te whakarongo, hei he ahanoa o hiahia, a tae noa collectibles.

timata nga kaihanga o nga rama ahua matarohia, me te nāianei ki te hanga i reka tūmatanui, ki arataki i te tikanga o te ora, pānga i runga i mahi kiritaki. Ko wai e nga rangatira o te whakawa? korero matou ki a koutou te mea e mōhiotia ana i te ao rongonui kaihoahoa kakahu e trendsetters i roto i wā wa rerekē.

Corner Shanel

Ko te tino tīmata ki Koko Shanel te ahumahi ahua. Te reira i radically ke te whakaaro o te kākahu wahine, me te ara o te ora i roto i te whānui. I roto i te 1909, he tauira mua o te whare pani Gabrielle Chanel whakatuwheratia he toa, he awheawhe mō te hanga pōtae. I muri mai ka tīmata ia ki te whai wāhi i roto i te hanga o te kakahu. kitea Ko tōna misioni te ki te waihanga mō te kotiro kakahu whakamarie. Ua ite Coco te huringa i roto i te whakapakoko o to'utangata ora, ka rapu ki te hanga i te kakahu, i roto i nei ratou i taea ongo'i fiemālie.

I te tau 1913, ka whakatuwheratia e ia he toa i roto i Deauville, te wahi te tuatahi ko te kohinga o takaro. I roto i te Pakanga Tuatahi o te Ao, e tuia ia kakahu poraka. Ko hoki Chanel he hoariri o te koere e mura, a whakaekea ana he take e whakaaetia te mahi i te kotiro kahore tenei kaupapa huānga fettering. tuku te reira i te hopea i roto i kakahu ohie, kua meinga ona potae laconic waiata. Coco ano te wa tuatahi kakahu ia tarau mo te ora rā, e kore e nui mo nga hariata, rite i reira i mua. Mai reira, e kore e taea te mahi i tona kohinga kahore whakawa tarau me te Tweed me buklirovannyh tatakirua: koti + pito ki taiepa pango e mōhiotia, whitiki papaki me pātene nui.

I muri i te matenga o Koko Shanel i roto i 1971. Ko te whare ahua i hanga e reira, i taea ki te noho i roto i te pai i roto i te ao. I teie mahana, tonu ia ki te mau tonu me te whakawhanake i te whakarerenga iho o te kaihanga nui, te whakawhanake pūeru huatau, me te mātanga.

Cristobal Balenciaga

whanau te kaihoahoa nui Spanish i roto i 1895, kua 24 nga tau ona tau, ka whakatuwheratia e ia tona whare ahua tuatahi i roto i Spain i roto i te Pakanga Civil, oho ia ki Paris, i reira ka timata ia te mahi ngingila rite kaihoahoa ahua.

Ia, pērā i ētahi atu Talafungani ahua, kua riro i te kaka ki te ahua i taea te whakahāngai me te tuitui i te kakahu, a kahore noa te utu i te reira. Kiritaki o te Balenciaga whare ka nga upoko karaunatia me whetu: marlene Dietrich, hinahina Kelli, te Tiuka o Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor. mauruuru ratou ia mo tona reka arero, me te kāhua, hanga ana e ia masterpieces, e kore potae. Cristobal mātu'aki mōhio o te pūmanawa o te papanga, me te wa katoa i mohio pehea ki te whakanui i te ataahua o te ahua wahine.

Kua mohio Balenciaga i te iriti ture no o kāhua, mangai ia ture o ahua, a kihai i rongo ki a ratou. I roto i te 50-doma o te maestro tuku sote kahore te whiri, ko reira te wa tuatahi whakamahi ia nga pokohiwi tapawha.

I roto i te 60raa Cristobal hua he sensation mā te whakaatu i te kohinga o potae, peke, i nga tino hāneanea me i te wa ano huna pai io kohakore ahua. Ano ka kite ahau i roto i tona kohikohinga pai i roto i te ao te kakahu, trapeze, potae silhouette kuiti, ka karanga "kotahi raina". invents ia, karekau Shirt tapahia i roto i te sote o nga wahine, kākahu tuku pēpē-tara, i kawea mahara ki nga fashionistas huri noa te ao.

I tua atu ki te potae Balenciaga orurehau tuitui koti wewete me whakapai, kotiro tuku he whakamarie koti whānui-tapahia me te koti ki te autahu'araa. I roto i te mutunga o 70-doma o te ariki mohio mutu taua ahua ki kia tiketike, e te mana o te whare ahua e rōpū. kahore ia e horo'a nei katoa ki te hoko whare ahua. I roto i te 1972, e kore ko te kaihoahoa, i reira i te maha o ngā whakamātau ki te whakahauora i te waitohu, heoi kihai i whai ratou angitu.

Christian Dior

maha mai kaihoahoa ahua Famous i ngā rawakore. Otiia tupu Christian Dior ake i roto i te utuafare rawa, ako ia koe, hiahia ki te riro i te toi. haere kaihau te whānau, me te i ki te whakaaro e pā ana ki imiraa moni taro ra. I roto i te 1946, i tau 41, ka whakatuwheratia e ia tona whare ahua ake i roto i Paris. Na kua i roto i te tau 1947 tukua te kohinga tuatahi o te Titiro New hou.

whakaurua "Titiro New" Dior te whakaaro o te wahine, ano he puawai ataahua. haere Fashion ki nga ngā katoa o nāianei, me te hoki ki te mau mana'o o te mua. Tona kakahu ki hope kuiti, me te whānui pito-pere, i tangohia e ake ki 40 mita o te papanga e faauru wahine nei e ngenge o te mamae whawhai me te faaino teimaha o hoa. Na, Koko Shanel ko Cristobal Balenciaga Dior whakawakia i roto i te reka retrograde me kino. whakarewa rite-ki-kākahu tetahi atu hit huaina rārangi nui. Otiia tonu Dior ki te whakaputa i ngā kohinga papai, i fana'o angitu nui.

Hoki 10 nga tau kua whakawhanakehia Kristian Dior tetahi 6 kohikohinga, te tapao o te mea i whāiti hope, me te wahinetanga. I roto i te 1957, ka mate a Christian Dior, engari e kore kua ngaro whare i tona ahua tona kororia ki tenei ra.

rangatira Modern: Dolce & Gabbana

Ko te kaihoahoa ahua ao-rongonui o te hauwhā whakamutunga o te rau tau 20, Dolce & Gabbana wahia ki te ao ahua i roto i 1982. I mua ki tenei, ka haere te melo tata'itahi o te one ratou ara i roto i te ao o te ahua. tutaki ratou i roto i te Atelier iti i roto i Milan. I roto i te 1985, Dolce & Gabbana tapae te kohinga o tona ake studio "wahine tūturu" ka hoatu te wikitoria ia he huarahi hou ki te ahua. Ratou purakau - ko ngā tawhā he, wahine kaha māia, ataahua nemodelnyh.

I roto i te heke mai, kua arotahi te kaihoahoa i runga i te ore- raa me te wherikotanga, ratou maia ngā papanga rerekē, he tino aroha o te miro. Ko ki o ratou kohikohinga katoa te whakatau i nga paerewa teitei o te papai. O ngā moni he raina o te tangata, e fakatahai he huatau Italian kāhua, waiwaiā, te itoito, me te taketake. Ki te rā, Dolce & Gabbana tukua e whitu ngā rārangi kakahu: i papai ki ngā tamariki, me potae one. e kore e ratou ringa ki runga i tona tūranga ārahi rite te kaihoahoa ahua pai-mohiotia.

Dzhordzhio Armani

Ko te kaihoahoa Italian rongonui Dzhordzhio Armani whanau i roto i te tau 1934, i tīmata ia mahi kia rite ki te kaiāwhina i Cerruti me Ungaro.

I te tau 1975, ka whakatuwheratia e te kamupene i roto i tona ingoa, a ka hua whakapai kohinga mo nga tangata, i roto i nei waives te kiore mua, me te faaore Pads pokohiwi. Tona pepeha - huatau me te tapatahi. I roto i te kohinga o nga wahine, Whakamahi ai tono ia i ngā tikanga ahua o te tangata, hangaia e te take rua-breasted taketake, i meinga te tapao o te Whare o Armani. tonu teie mahana Armani ki te whakahaere i tona whare, ana kiritaki - nga whetu i huri noa i te ao. Mark "Armani" hua 5 ngā rārangi o te kakahu, ia o nei whakatinana kaupapa te kamupene o.

Givenchy

mea kaihoahoa ahua Famous e Hubert de Givenchy - he pono kaihoahoa hapu aristocrat. e ia he moni i roto i te ahua i te wawe tau, mīharo e te kohikohinga o nga whare ahua o te wa. ako ia o ana hoa, me te paetahi i te kura o Fine Arts, a i roto i 1952 ka tuwhera i roto i te whare ahua Paris, hoko i te kaihoahoa whakaotinga o tona wa.

Tona kāhua - te reira tae hihiri me tā i roto i ngā ki te silhouettes ohie me parakore. Ngā mihi ki te mau tautooraa o French Givenchy i kakahu u sote ki Ruffles Bettina ma. Ko ia te stylist tino Odri Hepbern, te hanga tona whakapakoko ahurei, me te mōhiotia. Hoki tona ariki mai ki runga ki te kakahu-hāte me te huinga o potae ohie, me te huatau, kua meinga nei e te tohu o te wā.

I roto i ana kiritaki he maha whetu ao, me te e ngā rongonui i te ātahu, me te aravihiraa o pūeru i Givenchy. I roto i te tau 1993, ka reira ko te kitenga o Audrey Givenchy e ngaro te ao i te ahua o te wahinetanga, me te kore atu te mahi ataahua mo te tangata. hokona e ia te whare ahua, me te tonu retires.

Fashion i roto i Russia: Vyacheslav Zaitsev

kaihoahoa ahua Famous mea e he Russia ona ake āhuareka ahurei me te kāhua, a whakaurua ana Vyacheslav Zaitsev. whanau te artist i roto i 1938. Mai tamarikitanga, aroha o te tuhi, riro ia te tikanga o papanga kaihoahoa me 1962 ahu te rōpū whakamātautau i roto i te Soviet Whare o tauira i runga i Kuznetsky Rawa.

I te tau 1979 ka timata ia te mahi i roto i tona taiwhanga, e pai muri riro huatau ki te ingoa i te reira te kāinga. Kāhua Zaitsev - he ore- raa huatau. Ia maha whakamahi i te whakarerenga iho o kākahu motu Russian i runga i tona Te Hau-ā-uru rite Russian Cardin. Ka taea te kite i ona kohikohinga papanga taonga, huruhuru, kiri, hanga ana e ia he kakahu whakapaipai mo ngä me pūeru mahi mo ia ra. Zaitsev i roto i te wā Soviet i whakakakahuria te whiriwhiri o te Soviet Union, i tenei ra ana kiritaki - te whakatü Russian.

Valentin Yudashkin

Ki te hanga koe i te rārangi o "kaihoahoa ahua Russian Famous," ka ki runga ki te rārangi tuatahi i roto i reira ka waiho te ingoa o Valentin Yudashkin. Kei te whakaurua te reira i roto i te Syndicate o Runga Fashion i Paris. pai mahi tona whare ahua e kore anake i roto i Moscow, engari ano hoki i roto i France. Kāhua Yudashkin - he chic me te papai. puta tona kohinga tuatahi i roto i tau 1987, ia hohoro riro rongo te ao. tahuri wā Yudashkin i roto i to ratou kohikohinga ki te kaupapa Russian. rere ke kaihoahoa he nui te aroha o te whakapaipai: ngira, rhinestones, kora, tono - hanga tenei katoa reira pūeru kia kanapa, me te rerekē. Whare Yudashkin - te wahi i reira te kakahu Russian whetu whakaatu pakihi.

Igor Chapurin

kua hoatu kohikohinga kaihoahoa kakahu rongonui whanaketanga ki te whanaketanga o te whakaaro auaha o te kaihoahoa taitamariki Ikoa Chapurin. tīmata tana mahi ka mau ia wāhi i roto i te whakataetae ahua, i riro me te āhukahuka riro tonu. I te 1993 ka tukua e ia te kohinga tuatahi o te kaituhi, me i 1999 riro te "makanga Golden" mo te kohinga hou. Kāhua Chapurin - he kakahu mohio, hanga ana e ia nga kakahu mo whakaaro kotiro waenganui-koroheke. kitea kohinga o Chapurin e te matatini o te tarai me te haratau nui, aro nui ki te taipitopito me te hoahoa ariki. I roto i te kiritaki o te Fashion whare Chapurin maha rongonui whiriwhiri Russian pai ki te wharauroa ona kakahu.

tamarikitanga huatau

ahua rongonui ki te mahi tonu kaihoahoa kakahu, kei te tipu haere te ahumahi, kukume ope hou i roto i te taitamarikitanga. Huri noa i te ao, he taitamariki, me te ara te iwi taitamariki e kawe mai i roto i te ao o te kakahu, me te whakaaro hou te ahua Five and Seven. kaihoahoa Modern pai-mohiotia ahua - Stella Makkartni, tuahine Olsen, Eilish Macintosh, Uliana Sergienko, Jaimee McKenna, Rassel Seydzh. Ratou i teie nei te hanga i te heke mai, e whai ana ki te faahoruhoru i te ao ki te rongoā hou, me te ki te tahuri te whakaaro o te ataahua.